La Pizza de Saint Mandé

Today I had a great run around the castle, and some very nice catching up with some friends on phone/skype. I went to get groceries, but it was Sunday so Monoprix is closed at 1 pm(!) I went to the more expensive, smaller store, though, to get some milk and juice and paper towels (due to a orange-juice accident on Friday).

I was planning to make some rice but I saw a ton of people walking down the street (like I often do) with pizzas from this place right next to my house. So I spontaneously decided to try it out. I went in and sat at the bar…. it looked like a bar, not like a pizza place. There were old people at the bar drinking beer; no pizza visible.

The bartender guy asked me what I wanted so I asked if it was too late to order a pizza (it was just 8 pm but I was wondering anyway). He said no, it’s fine, and gave me a menu. I ordered this crazy thing.. a “companille” or something, but I don’t remember exactly. The menu said it had spiced ground beef, mushrooms, oregano, and an egg. Something like that. (Actually, I first ordered the “Quatre Saisons” — the classic Itallian “4 seasons” pizza, but then I asked him to change it.)

The bartender guy went to a tiny corner of the bar and prepared the pizza himself really quickly, and stuck it in the tiny oven. He said it would just be “cinq minutes”. At least I think so… they say “san minutes” which I think is the way to say “5 minutes” but it sounds less formal to me, and more like “a few minutes” instead of 5. I need to find out the real story here. Anyway, it took 5 minutes.

Pizza

He put it in a box, and then “presented” the box to me, holding it open, as if for my approval. “Votre pizza, monsieur!” he announced. I thought maybe I had to inspect it like with the first taste of a bottle of wine or something, so I just said something like “It’s good” and he closed the box and I paid for it. It seemed so formal/fancy for a moment there!

I know it looks sort of weird, but it was delicious! The egg seems extraneous, but the dough, especially is very soft and good.

I have felt more busy ever since I moved out of Alex’s apartment to my own place in St. Mandé. It’s great here — I love it and the apartment is nicer and more well-furnished (overall) than expected. I had to buy some stuff like a new pan and a lid and knife for cooking; the kitchen stuff was a little old. Also, the chair is too low for the table, so I ordered a new office chair, copying Alex’s chair. Also, I got a little rug for under my feet because the floor gets quite cold.

I decorated the walls some (based on Pri’s suggestion to “make the apartment your own; 5 months is a long time!”) I found a cool red painting of a tree in the closet, and got some string and hangers, and hung it above the desk. I also put up the Dr. Horrible calender Sara gave me and a music terminology poster in French I found at the post office.

Running in the Bois de Vincennes is great. I need to do it more often… it’s always so fun! My sleep schedule is still sort of messed up; need to figure out how to fix it.

February has been very fun here — maybe the best ever! I am very happy getting to keep in good touch with everyone over phone/skype/email/etc.

I met a few fun people at the French/English language group (Tempo Tea Time, TTT). I went out with one girl I met there to see the musical Roméo et Juliette. It was really fun, and great practice — both speaking to her in French and then trying to understand the French singing. She also had trouble understanding it due to the crazy over-amp’d, over-distorted music. The quieter, love songs were easier to understand.

I’ve also made progress on my research… but I hope all the stuff I’m working on now actually works when it’s done!

Met Joris and his wife, visiting from Belgium, today, and had a really great time catching up with him after 10 years! Through some complicated series of events, my sister Jenni still is using Joris’s old mattress now, in her house in Washington, if I understand correctly.

I didn’t love the music of Roméo et Juiette, but i really liked a few moments. Here is one:

Un Jour — “One Day”, a song at the start of the musical, before the lovers meet. They are both singing about their hope to fall in love “one day”, and it’s pretty. Some favorite similar-themed songs are “Something’s Coming” from WSS (of course), “Haven’t Met You Yet” (Michael Bublé — I keep hearing it on the radio here in Paris) and “Someone is Waiting” (Sondheim, from Company). “Marry Me a Little” is related (also from Company), but more focused on the idea of marriage than the waiting part. Anyway, Un Jour: a nice new addition to this song-category!

(Original version below)

Translation: “One Day (My own translation, with some help from this video)

Roméo :
I am loved by women, me who isn’t even 20 years old
I know all their weapons, they have killed me so often
I am loved by women, without having loved them
I’ve made their tears run, when they saw I was bored
Of their white bodies, bored of pretending
To love without truly loving
Love, I want it now.

Juliette :
What do we know of love when we aren’t even 16 years old?
Of course we know that “one day”, but when will “one day” come?
What does one know of life when yours has just started,
And that we die of impatience waiting for it
Who will love you, who will tell you
The words, these words we wait for
Love, I want it now.

R: One day she will really come
One day she will be my love

J: One day, he will really come, this day
When I will live love, one day

R & J:
One day, we will forget these days of dragging our heavy hearts
One day it will be our turn to love each other one day
One day, we will make the same vow
I was alone, we will be two, and we will love so strong
With our souls, with our bodies
And when death comes, we will still love each other, one day..

One day, we will make the same vow
I was alone, we will be two, and we will love so strong
With our souls, with our bodies
And when death comes, we will still love each other
One day

Original: “Un Jour”

Roméo :
Je suis aimé des femmes, moi qui n’ai pas 20 ans
Je connais toutes leurs armes, elles m’ont tué si souvent
Je suis aimé des femmes, sans les avoir aimées
J’ai fait couler leurs larmes, quand elles m’ont vu lassé
De leurs corps blancs, lassé de faire semblant
D’aimer sans aimer vraiment
L’amour, je le veux maintenant

Juliette :
Qu’est c’qu’on sait de l’amour quand on n’a que 16 ans
Bien sûr on sait qu’un jour mais, un jour ça sera quand
Qu’est c’qu’on sait de la vie quand la votre commence
Et qu’on meurt d’impatience en attendant celui
Qui vous aimera, celui, qui vous dira
Les mots, ces mots qu’on attend
L’amour, je le veux maintenant

R: Un jour elle viendra bien
Un jour elle sera mon amour
J: Un jour, il viendra bien ce jour
Où je vivrai d’amour, un jour

R & J:
Un jour, on oubliera ces jours, à traîner le cœur lourd
Un jour ce sera notre tour de nous aimer un jour
Un jour, on fera le même aveu
J’étais seule, on sera deux, et on s’aimera si fort
De nos âmes de nos corps
Et quand viendra la mort, on s’aimera encore, un jour..

Un jour, on fera le même aveu
J’étais seule, on sera deux et on s’aimera si fort
De nos âmes de nos corps
Ei quand viendra la mort, on s’aimera encore
Un jour

Today I had the simple idea of going to the bank branch right next to Alex’s house, instead of all the way to the one near my new apartment. The woman working there was a cute younger woman, and she was very pleasant and accepted my pile of cash for my rent deposit, no trouble at all. I wasn’t sure how to say “cash deposit” — the dictionary and google weren’t helpful at all… but she seemed to read my mind and asked if I wanted to make the desposit “en espèces” — like “in pieces (of money)/coins”. So now I know the right word!

I wanted to give bank-babe a big baiser or a hug; I have never been so happy to give away money before. Bank-babe was such a relief after dealing with bank-bitch two days ago!

So now I have my keys, Alex gives me a ride to move my stuff in tomorrow at 1 pm, and I’ve paid the first and last month’s rent!

In other news, it snowed a bunch this morning — very beautiful huge snowflakes! But it melted and I think I’ll take a big fast walk around the lake (my hip hurts a lot from the running and all the walking this week, I guess, so I think running might be a bad idea right now.)

snow jan 30

Early morning snow in Créteil

I tried to deposit my euros for rent today at the bank branch where my landlord has his account, but they wouldn’t accept any money! So I haven’t yet been able to pay rent.

Bad Bank

Bad Bank

When I arrived at the bank, I explained how I wanted to make a deposit to my landlord’s account, but the woman said something like “we’re closed for cash transactions [I wasn't sure I understood those 2 words] this afternoon, and besides, it’s impossible unless you’re the account holder.” I explained to her carefully that I had the necessary information — his various complicated bank codes, but she said “the regulations have changed in recent months.” I said that the current tenant has been making deposits at this very branch for the previous months, but she didn’t seem to think
that was possible, and said “sorry, it’s your landlord’s problem, not ours. Tell him to come make the deposit himself.”(I guess it’s possible the current tenant made a huge bulk deposit seveal months ago, if the regulations really did change… hard to say.)

Of course, my French isn’t perfect, but it’s not bad and I did a dictionary review of all the bank-related words I’d need before I arrived. When I lived in Lyon I’d experienced some  unwillingness of certain French people to do their jobs without some pressure — seems to be some cultural laziness or unwillingness to help that is very weird to an American, so I kept talking to her for a rather long time, and made sure we were communicating well and I wasn’t just saying a wrong verb somewhere. She assured me she understood and that it was simply impossible for anyone else to make a deposit. I asked for suggestions, and she said clearly that there was no possible way this could ever happen.

I then asked her where I could exchange dollars for euros (I have my rent money in USD travelers checks), and she, incredibly, told me it wasn’t possible. I said “I understand it’s not possible at this bank, but could you please recommend another bank”? And she said, no, banks don’t exchange money; only an exchange bureau at a train station or airport could do such a thing.

Good Bank

Good Bank

I stopped believing her at this point, because I know it’s possible at other places than the rip-off exchange bureaus. So I left, took a small walk in the Bois de Vincennes by my apartment, and then went to the BNP, a bank not far down the street from the first bank, and exchanged my dollars for euros. No problem, although the exchange rate still sucked ($1.48  / euro — ouch). I laughed with the helpful woman there about the crazy woman at the other bank. I told her my story, and she actually agreed that it’s generally not possible to make a deposit without being the account holder, but she suggested that “a written statement authorizing Mr. Nichols to make a regular monthly deposit (perhaps of a certain amount)” should be sufficient. It was a big contrast — this woman from another bank offering a suggestion on how to deposit money into a competing bank’s account.

So it’s striking to me that the woman at the first bank didn’t offer the simple suggestion of getting a letter of authorization to make a deposit. I can’t tell for sure if I just had bad luck with her — maybe she was just grumpy or something — or if it’s a general French trait. I think it’s more common to find unhelpful people like this than in the U.S. My foreign friends have commented before on how surprised they are by the helpfulness of people in the US compared with their own countries, so this might be an aspect where American culture is “nicer” than some others. Other countries also seem to have a higher prevalence of dishonesty. The woman today seemed to be flat-out lying  (or unbelieveably misinformed or naive) when she said that other banks couldn’t exchange dollars for euros. And if it’s possible for me to make a despoit with a written authorization letter, then she should have told me so — I gave her plenty of chances and explicitly asked her for any suggestions on how to make this desposit happen. Again, maybe she didn’t know any better, but that makes her a pretty crappy bank employee! Finally, I guess she could have simply decided to be mean because I was a foreigner and she didn’t like my accent. Anyhow, this all seems to be related to how the French have a stereotype of being rude (I was being incredibly polite during the whole exchange, and she was cordial enough, but definitely unhelpful and, in my opinion, dishonest.)

That’s the story — I wrote my landlord (and the current tenant) explaining this story and asking what steps to take next…  The good news is now I have my rent payment in Euro bills, so it should be as easy as possible now to somehow sneak that money into the bank vault.

metro

Saint-Mandé Métro

Also I walked a bit around Saint-Mandé, although it was rainy. I also tried to get a Gallette du Rois from a fancy bakery Alia recommended (LeNôtre), as a little thank-you present for Alex for letting me stay here (and so I could try it!) but unfortunately they stopped making them last weekend (it’s only done in January around Epiphany, and I was hoping to have till the end of the month, but not quite… )

rainy

Rainy Day in Saint-Mandé

flowers

Flower Shop

A short story: I went to the boulangerie at 4:30 pm, and it was pretty crowded. The guy in front of me ordered 2 pieces of flan, and he specified that he wanted the big pieces in the front of the display case, not the smaller ones, so the nice boulargerie girl obliged and picked out exactly the difficult-to-reach ones he pointed out. The guy was very nice ang thanked her. I had smiled when he was specifying exactly which pieces, and so he started talking to me (well, basically I listened) about how those pieces were so much bigger they should cost extra, or maybe he said the other smaller ones should cost less. He said a lot, fast, and I guess he assumed I understood everything. He just kept talking like crazy while I smiled and nodded. He seemed friendly, and it was funny.

Next I decided to get a chocolate eclair. I didn’t realize it would be filed with chocolate cream, so it’s sort of too rich to eat, but it was nice ot try a real French eclair. The fun part was ordering, because I guessed it was masculine and ordered “un eclair au chocolat”. That was fine. Then I asked boulangerie-girl if it was “un” or “une” and she looked confused and said “une eclaire, I guess”. Then she looked at the other people in line behind me, and this older guy smiled and said “well, it’s masculine! so it’s un eclair.” Everyone seemed to agree. So only boulangerie-girl got the gender wrong.. I was sort of lucky I think. I also got an awesomely fresh baguette (they had just finished baking a batch, I think!) and specified a “not-too-cooked” one, so it is the softest one ever. This time, she was asking everyone in the line if they wanted well-cooked or not-so-cooked, and EVERYONE asked for not-so-cooked. It makes me wonder why it’s an option! Finally, I thanked her for the french lesson and I left.

Today I went to La Poste to pick up my mail — I had a delivery notice yesterday. Although I had a dream last night were I was speaking French (!) I had a bad French day in real life. I went into the post office and was waiting by the counter, but then this rather short girl, in front of the counter, asked me if she could help me. She worked there; don’t know why she wasn’t behind the counter… but it’s more like a small desk/pedestal thing, and the people working there wander around the post office a fair amount — it’s not like in the US.  She took my delivery slip thing and then asked for a piece of identity. But I couldn’t understand her and asked her to repeat. She smiled and said it more slowly; she was nice and helpful. The rest of the French people were less cool, today, but she was nice about my accent and French troubles. So I showed her my driver’s license and she went to get my mail.. it was my Owl City tickets for last February!

Owl City

Owl City tickets for February!

A cool thing I wanted to mention: note the zip code on the ticket, 75011. The Paris zip codes are great. Even though the different quarters of Paris (the arrondissements) are laid out in a bizarre clockwise way modeled after the shape of a snail (escargot!), once you memorize the numbering system it’s pretty convenient. And the zip codes are based on the arrondissement number: just read off the last two digits. Paris zip codes are always 75000 + arrondissement #, so this concert (in Le Nouveau Casino) is in the 11th (right next to Pere Lachaise cemetary, it turns out, 15 minutes from my métro station.) My apartment, by the way, is sort of surrounded by the 12th, but Saint-Mandé isn’t in one of the official Paris arrondissements, even though the Bois de Vincennes is part of the 12th! Saint-Mandé looks like someone cut out a chunk of the forest and made a big development there… my zip code is 94160 instead of one of the 75000 series.More info on Saint-Mandé here on wikipedia.
arrondissements
Next I went to the grocery store for some bread and meat — that’s all — but when I tried to pay with exact change the grumpy lady working there just gave back one of my coins and didn’t say anything. It looked fine to me, and I even explained in French (well, this is 10, I gave you 5) etc etc. But she grumbed something, which I think was “it was not issued from here”. It sounded more like “that’s not ‘sous’” but the “sou” doesn’t exist anymore dow that it’s Euros instead of Francs and sous (cents), so I’m not sure… anyway, she wasn’t very nice about it, and it was hard to understand. And of course, French people speak very quietly, which makes them uncharacteristically hard to understand, I think, compared with poeple in some other countries. Anyway, I gave her a larger bill and gave up on exact change. And finally, just after-the-fact, I figured out that the 10-cent piece I gave her was 10 Yen instead. It said 10 on it and was about the right shape/size/color to be a 10 eurocent piece. So it seems like a reasonable mistake. If she had said “dude, this is 10 yen, it’s not euros!” it would have made sense and been sort of funny… but the cryptic “it’s not issued from here” was super-hard to understand, grumpily-mumbled at me. I even made a little joke in French, looking in my wallet at the Yen that had snuck in: “oh, I see, there are a lot of countries in here” but she didn’t seem to appreciate it. People are just no fun sometimes, especially grumpy checkout stand clerks.

Now I sort of feel like Christopher Reeve in “Somewhere in Time”, with my incorrect currency somehow sneaking into my wallet.

Then I went to the bakery for some more bread; it was nice because the two people I like there (not the grumpy one) were working.

navigo

Navigo Pass for the Métro

And finally, I went to the metro station to get a “Navigo Pass” — the awesome card that lets you have unlimited trips on the metro and bus; you pay by the week or month. The guy there understood me fine, but he seemed generally annoyed

navigo back

Back of Navigo Pass. Note how in this more advanced country, everything has chips instead of lame magnetic stripes.

by my French, not nice or helpful, especailly. But he took my photo and I got the card fine (the card itself is free if you have a local address, so I did that without trouble). I asked him if my debit/credit card would work to pay for it in the machine, and he said “of course”. But “of course”, it didn’t work, because the US is so outdated.

This is a big problem and the US needs to fix it; I read a bunch online about it. The rest of the world stopped using magnetic stripe cards and useless signatures; instead eveyone else uses little smart cards with computer chips and PIN codes. So even credit cards need a PIN, and everything is more secure and less dark-ages. But the US was an early-adopter, so now everyone needs to install new credit card machines in the US if we switch. Meanwhile, the whole EU has agreed to stop using magnetic stripe cards completely int he next few years, so we’re going to just get more incompatible.

My cards seem to work about half the time here, or less. And the rest of the world is the same way — it was hard to pay for stuff even in Montreal, for instance; you have to somehow find an ATM where the card works, and then take out a pile of cash. It’s really lame.

I’m thinking of opening a bank account here so that I can get a reasonable debit card instead of carrying around cash everywhere… not sure what the best plan is. For now, I have this Navigo pass, but I guess I’ll have to pay for it later, because my magnetic strip cards certianly didn’t work in the recharging-machines. My landlord, however, still recommends just using cash and not going to the trouble of a local account — I emailed him jsut now and he already gave his advice… so we’ll see. I guess I must be able to pay for the Navigo thing with cash somehow if I go back to their office.. it seems so much less convenient though, than using the recharge-machines that are all over the metro stations.

I have so much coding to do… but I feel good about it right now thanks to getting all my thoughts organized, and also thanks to a nice little chat with Matthew today about the research. So work is good… lots I want to finish before seeing Doug Wednesday though.

Saint Mandé boulangerie

Saint Mandé boulangerie, Rue Jeanne d'Arc (1 block from my apartment)

Saturday I went to Saint Mandé for the first time, met with Nina (the current tenant), and got my keys! The apartment is great — the building seems fancy, very secure with a little gate and two sets of big solid doors. I like my ground-floor apartment. It’s 23m^2 so it’s small (just a studio, but with a good sized bathroom/tub) and the bed/desk/kitchen is all one room. Nina (a professor on sabbatical from the UK, in French literature and digital media) was very nice and helpful showing me the building and room, and then she gave me a walking tour of the neighborhood. I will go back there Monday to pay rent at the bank. I’m super-excited… I will move in next Sunday, and I can’t wait to get installé in my new room.

Metro La Sorbonne

Métro stop in the Latin Quarter

After that I went to the Latin Quarter again, but my usual café place had the power outlets turned off (to discourage people like me from coming on the weekends to work — some head waiter guy came over and explained it to me when he saw me trying to plug in the laptop. But he said working there during the week is ok. I was a but annoyed because they actually had less customers while I was there than this time than they did last week when I was there…) Anyway, I worked a while and then headed back towards Alex’s place.

Creteil Soleil

Mall map at Créteil Soleil

However, I went all the way to the huge shopping mall at the next metro stop. It is the biggest mall anywhere around here…. 3 stories, lots of shops like FNAC and a very huge Carrefour (super wal-mart style grociery + everything else store). I got some stuff at FNAC (it’s like Borders or B&N combined with Best Buy, so it’s tons of fun… I liked seeing the French layout Apple external keyboards and very cheap LCD monitors, HUGE manga section, lots of French graphic novels, science books, French literature, etc etc.. I bought some French language reference

french Mac Air

French keyboard

stuff in French, and some cheap CDs including a new Celine Dion one totally in French, with the curious title of <<d’Elles>> — which means either “of them” or “from them” or the possessive “theirs”, where “them/theirs” is the feminine plural (we don’t have masculine vs feminine 3rd person plurals in English, but we do in French, so it’s a very specific and strange-sounding title to me). I guess the CD is based on texts by a bunch of different famous women, such as George Sand.)

After FNAC I went to the Carrefour and bought Alex a replacement coffee maker for his broken one, and some pens, etc. Then I waited in line forever… I’d never seen so many people waiting, or such slow cashiers, or so many checkout lanes. Eventually I saw the map (when I was already at about the front of

history of science for dummies

History of Science for Dummies

the line) of the checkout area… I was in lane 42 or something… but lanes 60-70 or so were reserved for < 10 items. So I should have gone there instead. This was a place with something like 80 checkout lanes, so I couldn’t actually see all the lanes in the distance… it was sort of like looking at an infinite regress of mirrors; the lanes in the distance got so small, and sort of obscured by all the people.

tajine

Electric Tajine! (at Carrefour)

Then I got a salmon-on-baguette sandwich (just like the ones so popular in Sweden) at a little sandwich shop in the mall food/restaurant court. I wanted to talk to the sandwich-making-girl more because I saw her tattoo as I was sitting down, but her boss was talking to her the whole time and there were customers

sandwich

Salmon sandwich, Coca Light, Galette de Roi au chocolat

constantly, so I never got to try talking about it… (it was barely visible on her arm, one time… looked really frighteningly big, but it was a huge treble cleff, a staff, some music notation, and I sort of wondered how much music was running up her arm under her shirt.)

Finally I got tired of trying to wait for a chance for bonus French language practice with her (I think they were starting to get ready to close the shop) so I walked home. It was exhausting, in the dark, with the coffee maker, books, laptop, etc etc., and I tried a new route home using my GPS and iPhone steet maps I downloaded.. it was actually pretty fast to get back. I walked by a McDonalds with a “McDrive” — I guess that’s their word for drive-through.

Today, Sunday, I did some music stuff with my piano, and then went on another jog around the lake, but this time going by the mall on the way. It was actually a shorter loop. I used the same iPod mix from last time. It worked great, again, because I have this song “Into the great wide open” that comes on just when I’m getting to the lake — the view opens up, I see the huge lake I’m starting to run around, and Tom Petty starts singing… it’s great! Here’s the playlist. It pumps me up, but I know it’s sort of a weird mix for most people :) “If I Said I Loved You” really gets me going, but it’s a very slow song… it’s just the beautiful duet that makes me excited there.

A real quick update: I feel more motivated now… a bit less jet lag, and since I set up a meeting with Doug I feel more pressure to do lots of work.

Wednesday, I was really motivated but kept having computer failures. I spent lots of time moving all my photos to the external HDD, although it’s annoying that the Windows can’t read my Mac formatted HD unless I buy this crazy $40 3rd party software. Lame. I decided to just boot in native Windows mode for now to avoid the computer issues… but I want my mac stuff too. I ordered a single 4GB memory card for my laptop to put in one slot — right now both slots have 2GB, and it turns out even though that’s supposed to be the max for this chipset, people have made a 6GB config work with 4+2GB (the 4+4 setup doesn’t work though, so this is the best possible without upgrading the whole laptop). Hopefully this helps me run Parallels better.  I ordered the RAM to be sent to my place in France, I hope I don’t have to go pay the 20% import tax…. I couldn’t find a good deal on the RAM at a French company so this US place seemed best…

Thursday, I woke up and went on a super-long run, all the way to the lake in downtown Creteil, and around the lake, 5.3 miles (and it was very beautiful, lots of little surprises along the lake!). Then, I showered and left for Paris, and went back to Le Petit Suisse, got the good table with the power outlet, and got my work organized… make a big excel sheet of my things to do, and estimated times for each and prioritized, etc.  I had started this the previous time I was at that cafe, but finished the initial round of planning this time, and started in on some work. First up: documenting in English what in the world my existing code does. I also made lists of desired future features along the way. This will also translate fairly well into the architecture section of my dissertation, so it’s sort of two birds with one stone.

That day I ran the 5.3 miles, and walked 1.5 miles to and from the metro in Creteil, and also I went through the Jardin de Luxembourg, where I was happy to see couples kissing on the benches, even on a  cold day (it can be a lot crazier there in the summer). I walked around a lot, so at least it was a couple more miles on foot (with my heavy backpack.) I was exhausted at the end of the day!

Today I went shopping for more groceries, and made myself some a traditional Creteilian dinner:  ”arroz brasileiro” (if I got that right) with added mushrooms, so it was rice, onions, a tomato, and the mushrooms. I also had some Pyrenee de Vache cheese with it as well as a tiny bit of a crazy goat cheese, and then kiwi fruit.

Traditional Cretilian dinner

Yes, it is hard to keep up with blog posts… I’ll just list some highlights of the past several days.

I went to Paris for the first time on Friday, and also went in to the city on Sat. and Sunday. On Friday I went to the Hôtel de Ville metro stop and started by going to centre Pompidou, to learn where it was to meet Rim there on Sunday. Then I walked by Nôtre Dame, got a croque monsieur from a street vendor (it was bad, so I decided to try again some other day), and diet coke (I would have reprised the Orangina I got there on the same street years before, but I wanted the caffeine, so it was “coca cola light” time instead. Then I walked across the bridges to the latin quarter, and recognized the streets from the previous trip with Zach — it was fun to see the same newsstand again years later. I walked around La Sorbonne, saw lots of bookstores, a game shop, but couldn’t pick a good cafe. Finally I found a crèpe place and came inside. It wasn’t so great, but I was tired of walking so it was good. I tried to read and work a bit, but it wasn’t very comfy. I left and it was dark and I walked up sort of randomly to the Pantheon and the Saint-Genevieve library, and then down through some cute tiny streets full of restaurants, until I found some metro stop and went home.

Alex’s friend was in town, so I got to practice speaking French with her back at his apartment. Saturday, we were going to help his friend move, but it was the wrong day, so instead I went to Paris again. Back to the Latin Quarter. It was raining though, so I quickly went to a square, Place de la Contrescarpe, which I found online recommended as a good place to find cafes to study. I went into a cafe there, “La Contrescarpe”, but it was sort of fancy. They let me sit and study, but I didn’t find any outlets for the laptop. I did some work after having a cappucino and a croque madame (the monsieur, but with an egg on top, of course).

I got tired of it there and walked to the Jardin du Luxembourg, where I hoped to find a cafe and maybe bump into Cosette. The Luxembourg Garden is this magical place for me, where Marius met Cosette, so I just love seeing it. It is so exciting, maybe my favorite place in Paris, just because of that story. I finally found the next recommended place, “Le Petit Suisse”, which was way better — a tiny cafe with a two-level seating arrangement, and I was able to find a seat with”une prise” — a power outlet. I ordered a cappucino again, and then listened to some Cosette or other and her mom, next to me, ordering some deserts. The mom had an apple pie which looked good, but Cosette had this amazing chocolate thing, so I asked her what it was and told the waiter I wanted one too. I did some work, but I needed to use the restroom… so eventually I left. I did see a restroom tucked away as I left though, so it seems like a perfect place to return to to do work for another afternoon (maybe tomorrow!!) It was raining, dark, cold, so I used the GPS to find the nearest metro with good connections back home, which turned out to be the Odéon stop. I liked the name. I walked though Place de l’Odéan or whatever on the way… there was a big monument-type rounding building.. the Odéon itself, I guess, though I have no idea what it is. It looked mysterious and ancient in the rain, and I felt like I was inside an RPG like Oblivious on Xbox, only the lighting effects were even better than in the video game…. the reflections from the puddles of water, street lamps, a couple pushing their baby carriage through the rain in the narrow sidwalk in front of me, etc etc. I followed them and the crowds to the metro stop — it was easier to follow the gradient of more-people (and the physical gradient down the hill, at the same time) to the metro, than to constantly follow the map and GPS in the rain.

Sunday — I went to Paris and met Alia’s great friend Rim in front of the fountain at Centre Pompidou. It was fantastic to meet her, enfin, after hearing stories about her for so many years! She seems great and I can easily imagine being good friends with her — she’s so sweet. She gave me a nice tour of a bunch of the famous spots around there, we walked through a street market, over to the Louvre, towards the Arch de Triomphe, across the Seine to the Eiffer Tower, and tok a metro to Sacré Coeur, climbed it, got food in Montmartre (a panini, and then some ice cream — pistachio and nutella for me, because I first had pistache ice cream there 13 years ago!), saw some amazing paintings by artists in the street, including a Nicole Kidman/”Satine” portrait, took great photos of Paris from above, went inside the church and heard some incredible chant — very gorgeous music!! — and then walked down and over to the Moulin Rouge. The best part, though, was just getting to hang out with Rim — we spoke just French so I could practice, and it was really easy and fun with her. I made plenty of jokes, which was so nice after making that 1 solitary joke in Lyon after 5 months, not to mention my 1-word experience trying to talk to the little kid in Montreal. Rim and I tag-teamed a joke when I was commenting how it was funny that there was a station named “white” on the “blue” metro line, and then she pointed out that we were going from “white” to the red of the “Moulin Rouge”, so we had white, blue, and red — the french flag! Somehow it reminded me of something Alia would have said, either because they’re friends or because they’re both Moroccans, I can’t tell — but it definitely made me feel very comfortable around Rim.

Monday, I ended up sleeping too much due to residual jet lag… but I did run some errands and buy a bunch of groceries to fill up the empty kitchen… I took Alex’s rolling cart thing and walked to the store, got lots of Brazilian orange and mango juice, milk, toilet paper, etc. I went back to the bakery and talked to the nice bakery-girl and got a new kind of bread, a mix between Tradition and Baguette. Eventually I found my way to the big movie theatre MK2 (via the new metro line 14 (purple), which is fast and awesome, automatic — no driver, double doors on the platforms, which feels so much safer, etc etc) to meet up with Alex and see Avatar in 3D. The rest of my night was spent listening to the soundtrack I bought on iTunes and obsessing over how awesome the movie was.

Today, Tuesday, I also had trouble and fell asleep in the afternoon — but then I went jogging back to the park. I got a bit lost on the way home, trying to take a different route and heading north when I thought I was going east. I followed my sense of direction back ok, but I was not quite where I expected, and it was getting dark. It was scary for a little bit when I felt like maybe I was running totally in the wrong direction.. I had a feeling I might end up needing to backtrack and do a 6 mile run… but it turned out it was only 3.3 miles in the end, although I felt like it was 4.5 becuase I was so confused. I ran by the metro to buy 10 more tickets, and then by the bakery on the way home for a demi-baguette for later. Then I showered, made some phone calls back home, and hurried out to meet Doug and Alex and Emanuel and his wife and 2 of their kids for dinner at a pizza place next to the Royal Palace, on Rue de Montpensier. It was an italian pizzeria, on an interesting little road surrounded by walls — a very funny square-within-a-square arangement, so it felt like a crazy videogame, again. I hope videogame designers realize they can get awesome map ideas by just coming to Paris. This place is laid out in a much more interesting way than most RPGs, but the best ones seem to have a lot in common with this. Oblivion is pretty good, for instance, but it seems too logical, maybe, compared with the chaotic twisty alleys of Paris.

Dinner was great — we only spoke French, so again it was good practice. Doug is awesome in French, and makes the same kinds of jokes and wordplay in French that he does in English. I can’t remember the best ones from tonight, but a fun little thing: he commented how Alex lives in places starting with “B-O”, like Boston and Bozeman, but sadly not Paris… then I said I lived in “B” towns like “Bozeman”, “Bend”, and “Bloomington”, and Doug, without missing a beat, said “and now Baris” — pronounced “BAR-EE” like “PAR-EE”, of course.

We scheduled a meeting for next Tuesday evening… lots of work to do before then! I’ll meet him at his apartment — he gave me a ton of crazy security codes I have to use to get through all the gates, etc. into his apartment building.  So, now I’ll sleep, and hopefully get lots done tomorrow.

Brie de Melun

Today’s adventure was another little trip back to the cheese shop. I am currently eating a strong brie, and I noticed that when I breathe out through my nose I feel a funny burning sensation, like when you accidentally breathe in a bunch of highly chlorinated water at the swimming pool and then feel the chlorine/water sort of stuck in your nose/lungs for several minutes afterwards. That’s what this brie is like, but it’s also very good.

When I arrived I told the guy working there (in French, of course) that I had just arrived from the U.S. and I wanted to better know the French cheeses. He was very nice and helpful and asked if I’d like to try some “classics”, and first suggested a brie. I think it was the same as the one Alex bought before, so I asked for a stronger brie, so he suggested the brie de melun. I managed to explain how I wanted about half as much as I saw in one of the pre-cut chunks, so he sliced me off the right amount. No problem. He said a bunch of other interesting stuff about other cheese at that point, and I barely understood it, unfortunately. Wish I knew what useful stuff he was telling me! Next he recomended one of the cute little cheese (a crottin de chavignol), which is a nice little circular piece of goat cheese. Finally, he said something like “you have cow and goat, now how about sheep”? I didn’t know the word for sheep, “brebis”, but I said yes, and got a bunch of it.

Crottin de Chavignol

My cheese receipt was useful so I could find out what I ended up ordering — I had forgotten most of the names:

0.07 kg of brie de melun, 26.89 €/kg: 1.88 €

1 crottin de chavignol: 3.30 €

0.165 kg of tome de brebis corse, 31.60 €/kg: 5.21 €

Wow, I got expensive ones this time I didn’t look at the prices before trying them… but the brebis was my favorite, and most expensive.. It’s sheep cheese… tastes like a sort of dry, delicious white cheddar, but more interesting. These were really good picks today!

After the fromagerie I went to a new boulangerie for bread and tried a “Parisien” this time. Seems like a baguette but a bit wider and shorter. I asked for one “not too well cooked” so I got a yummier soft one. It’s great that you can choose like this! Also, when I couldn’t understand how much it cost (I couldn’t hear the woman very well), I explained that I had just arrived — people seemed quite friendly when I said that, so it’s a decent trick to use as I get started I think.

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